SCALES or kozane
How to make armor using Kozane
Ok we are talking about scales, This is the hardest part of Japanese armor. I will warn you that kozane take more time and practice then you think. It will also take MUCH more leather and lacing then a plate style. But the style is worth it if you have the time.
The kozane can differ in size and shape from period to period so I am going to give you a brief overview of the styles. First lets look at the shapes,
The first is from 15th century it is the simplest form of kozane. Some things to notice, one there are 2 columns of holes and the top row only has one hole in it. The others show different styles used in other armors. An average size for Kozane is around 1 inch wide by 3 inches tall.
Ok you have chosen the style of kozane you are going to use. Lets talk metal, The gauge you want to use should be steel or titanium (if you can afford it) in a 16 to 10 gauge. I am not going to go into lacquering the steel I suggest a good coat of spray paint and spray lacquer will do the job just as nicely and keep you out of the hospital, as traditional lacquering is not conducive to health.
The most difficult part of making kozane is how do I cut out the scales. Well I am still looking for an easy way. The easiest way I have found is to make the kozane as simple as possible. So lets take a Kozane that is 1 inch by 3 inches with a 45 deg cut on the top ( see the second scale in the above picture). Cut a strip 1 inch wide as long as the as the sheet metal you are working with is long.
Take the strip and cut off 3 inch sections.
Cut off the 45 deg edge.
If you have a drill press: drill out the holes on one scale. Take care on the first one this will be the template for the others. Now stack a few scales on your drill press, make sure they are all even with the others. Lay your template on the top of the plates. drill the lowest left hole going threw all of the scales. Now put a nail in the hole that you just drilled, realign the scales so they are all lined up for the second hole. Drill the upper right hole, then place a nail in that hole. The two nails Should hold the scales in place so they don't move around on you. Drill the other holes and you have some kozane!
If you don't: Meet your friend the...... errrrrr the hmmmmm.... you know that macgyver thing I was talking about? have fun.
Now its on to stitching the kozane together!
Step One
Cut
out your scales
Things to note on choosing a scale style:
1. The smaller the scale the stronger the armour, but the more material and time it will take to assemble.
2. For this lacing style to work you need seven rows and two columns.
3. For ease of lacing after lacquering make sure the top three rows of holes are larger then the bottom 4 rows (this is needed for the diameter decrees after lacquering.
4. Take time in cutting and drilling the scales, as miss-cut or mis-aligned scales can not be used.
Step
Two
1.
Lay out however many scales needed to make the desired length as
displayed.
2. Using your chosen cord or lacing tie a knot on one end to stop the cord from pulling threw the scale, and thread the other end threw the lowest two rows. The crossover of the stitching should be in a diagonal direction as shown.
3. Once you reach the last scale in the piece move the cord to the third and forth rows from the bottom and continue stitching but convert to using a up down stitch.
Step Three
1. The scales should be formed to the final shape needed.
2. Lacquer the scales (in depth lacquering guide will be coming soon)
3. Let dry very well
4. Repeat for all pieces in the suit
Step Four
1.
With two lacquered plates lace as displayed starting from the left to the right.
2. The blue wire shows the path needed, (when the wire goes off the red lacing it indicates the cord goes threw the hole to the other side)
3. Take Tylenol as needed for hand cramps
4. Repeat tell suit is complete
Below is another slightly different quick reference picture for the stitching pattern.
Questions? Comments? Insults? contact the web master at: Ichiban@wakagashira.com