Forming the pattern
Ok you have your pattern, I will be using the downloadable patter from the patterns section.
Llay the pattern out on poster board or non-variegated cardboard and trace your pattern on the poster board and cut out your pieces.
Below are the pieces I will be working with.
Let me spare you some trouble MARK YOUR PIECES!!!!!!!!! You WILL forget what piece is for the sode and what piece is for the do. I can hear you now, Oh no I won't forget I have a great memory and they all look different. Do me a favor, stand up find the closest woman and tell them that you think that they have put some weight on. I'll wait..... Now that your face is burring from being hit tell them that I thank them for slapping some sense into you for me and apologize for the comment and MARK your pieces after EVERY step.
Ok now that we have that over with here are my cut out pieces. If you look closely they are marked (practice like you play!)
With a damp cloth wipe off the surface and back of the cardboard. This may seem a strange or unnecessary but it will make a big difference..... Ok Time for a mini rant, People are always writing me (this I like) but around once a month I get some one that write to me and blames me for his piece falling apart. Almost always they didn't follow the instructions and did quickly. In one case I think he spent the same time complaining as he worked on his armor. I politely offered a full money refund of what he paid for my instructions. A few weeks later he e-mailed me asking where his check was (not the brightest monkey to ever fall out of tree). What's my point? If you want this armor to look good take your time don't work in a bad mood or when you have other things to do. Don't set a deadline for the armor to get done. 90% of the fun of this armor is in making it. Have fun take time and make the armor a representation of your pride in your work. In the end you will get out what you put into you armor. Ok back to my delusions of trying to teach you something.
As you wipe the slightly wet cloth over the cardboard the pieces will begin to slowly warp, when this happens you can curve the board to conform to the shapes that you need. Be careful the cardboard will tip if to much is done to it. Start with small pieces first (yes I know "Oh but I want to start with the big pieces they are all big and can see how it will look on me"). The group in Japan that showed me this style suggest a wine bottle or beer can to use like a rolling pin to get a even curve. Remember think like Mcgyver.
Steps to forming the body
Ok to show you how to mold the board I will use the Do as an example as it has a wide range of curves and tucks in it.
Ok starting with the back of the Do, (the left side). The objective it to make a slight curve in the middle of the back and a sharp curve at the edges. There are two methods of forming pieces.
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The Ichiban way. Get some old clothes on, Set the pieces damp and from them by placing them on you body and forming the board around your own body. It looks and feels strange but it works really well. This works for arms legs and body pieces. Not so good for the head as wet cardboard smells bad and it will take weeks to get the smell out of your hair. Once the cardboard is formed around your body let it dry. You may need to make some adjustments as it dries.
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The other way. After getting the board damp start to curve the board with your hands or on a form. and let it dry. |
Ok that was easy, Now lets look at the front of the do.
I think the picture speaks for its self, NOT.
The numbers are the steps you take.
1. Curve the do slightly
2. Curve the edges so they go 1/2 way around your sides. (just like the back)
3. Slightly curve the upper chest and belly back to form fit the wearer.
4. Here it gets messy, you have to tape the cut out gaps to make the proper curve. But as you know tape and wet cardboard don't stick together that well (I wonder why?). So how do you do it? Tape the gaps after step 3 is done and the board is dry. after its taped get a paint brush and paint water around the stress points by the tape and smoothen them out. I hesitate to say this as many will over look detail but some small bumps can be taken out in the thickening process.
Note!!!!!!
Take care not to over curve the lower parts of the armor, it chafes.
The helmet.
The kaubto is the most complex piece of the suit and the part that will draw most peoples eyes first. I estimate that it will take around 50 % of the time you work on the armour. Due to the advanced amount of curving and bending in the kabuto you need to take great care that the tape will not reopen when drying.
Note.
The red parts show the need to tape to reinforce so reopening during the drying and thickening processes do not occur.
Click here to continue to the next step.
Questions? Comments? Insults? contact the web master at: Ichiban@wakagashira.com
